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Catching Waves and Standing Up when Surfing

After padding to a certain distance from the shore and are waiting for the waves, surfers get up from their low position and sit on the boards. This is done so that they can get a better view of the oncoming waves and prepare for its. Lying for long periods on the board can be very tiring. Sitting up is fairly easier than padding or positioning. A surfer needs to position his or her two legs on the two sides of the board and put all the weight in the center of the board.

It is important to find the right position for sitting on the boards, since an imbalance can lead to the boards tumbling into the water. It is a matter of practice to find the right sitting position while the waves are constantly moving underneath the boards. There is a good chance that the board might drift off while changing position. When catching a wave, place the board parallel to the incoming wave and the nose slightly pointed towards the beach.

A wave should be big enough to pick up a surfer and bring him or her in. When such a wave is coming toward a surfer, the surfer needs to start pushing towards the beach and at the same time begin getting up on the board. This is where the positioning comes in and takes a while for surfers to practice the same. Catching a wave like an experienced surfer can take a few good months.

Positioning when Surfing

Positioning is the most important aspect to learn for a beginner who wants to at least be able to catch a few waves. Before hitting the water with the surf board, the beginner needs to practice positioning on dry land on the board. Some trainers train new surfers with a cylindrical drum under the surf board and the beginner surfer on top of the board. The beginner will have to balance the board till he or she finds the best positioning sweet spot.

A person has to stand sideways and can either keep the left foot in the front or the right foot in the front, depending on the comfort of the person. A a person goes on getting better at surfing, the position of the left and right feet change. The feet need to have the same distance as the length of the shoulders. The distance between the two feet also change as the person keeps getting better at surfing. The most crucial moment, when it comes to positioning is when getting a wave.

The time available for getting up and keeping the foot in the position that one is most comfortable comes after a lot of practice. The timing when a person approaches a wave and changes direction is also crucial for surfing. The best time to catch a wave is just before the wave breaks into white water. Trainers can teach a beginner all the skills required, but when facing a mammoth wave, the mind goes blank.

Paddling when Surfing

Paddling is another very important skill in the tough sport of surfing. During training sessions, trainers spend a very long time paddling around. Initially it's very tiring until a person's body gets used to it and builds up the necessary muscles to sustain themselves for a long period.

Paddling involves lying on the board with with the face a little distance away from the board, with the nose in the air. This way the weight of the body will be higher towards the back of the board, leaving the front of the board a little higher above the surface of water. This keeps the board from diving into the water. It's a very tiring position but is very important for heading towards an incoming wave; hence, this is one of the first techniques that are taught new surfers.

Beginners do the mistake of being too far back on the surfboard, which causes them to lose balance. The entire weight of the top part of their body needs to be on the bottom of the ribcage. Their feet also need to be kept outside the board and also lifted above the water to avoid dragging. The arms need to be outside the board and are used to paddle inside the ocean. An S shape is the most effective way to paddle through the water. Experts advise against using butterfly stroke, which will slow a person down.

Other Surf Board Accessories

Apart from a Surf board, the other most important accessory for surfing is a wetsuit. Surfing wetsuits are created out of neoprene, a synthetic rubber. These suits reduce the drag between the body and the water by trapping a thin layer of water. This also allows the body to retain heat in cold water. Wetsuits need to fit perfectly and shouldn't be baggy. Most occasional surfers do not use wetsuits and only surf in shorts.

Leashes are another important accessory that every surfer needs to have. A leash helps keep the surf board attached to a surfer at all times. Leashes are connected to the leg or the hands of the surfer and the other end to the board. In a surfer loses balance and falls of the board, the board avoid being lost and is at an accessible distance for the surfer to climb on and head back chore. A loose board can be hazardous for other surfers and swimmers hence shouldn't be let loose.

Boards require one very important maintenance equipment i.e. Wax. Wax is used to increase the traction between the rider's feet and the boards, so that the rider does not slip off the board when hit by a wave and turned to 45 degrees. Board with a surfboard traction pad do not require surf wax, however most of the other board do require the user to rub appropriate amount of wax on the board. Rubbing wax over the board creates tiny bumps over the board that holds the toes in place.

Surf Board Dimensions

Surf boards are differentiated based on their length, width and depth. The kind of surf board that a person uses defines the performance in the water. The length of a surfboard is a very important factor. The longer a board is the easier it becomes to paddle and also it is easier to stand up on the board since it is more stable. Beginners should go for a long board in the initial stages of learning.

The width of a surf board defines how stable it is while controlling. With increasing with, the board becomes more stable. The depth of a surf board determines how the board will float in water. If the board floats easily on the water, it becomes easier to paddle and also to ride on top of the waves. Another important factor to consider in a surf board is the fins. A fin is the curved protruding bit of piece that hangs below the board in the tail. Fins do exactly what they do in fish, they are used to giving directional stability to the board and allows professional suffers to make turns and tricks. Fins are a recent addition to surfboards and have helped surfers to ride waves for a longer period of time by spending more time in wave. The first fins came were introduced into board in the 30s. A few boards are available with twin, tri and multiple fins.

Surf Board Types

Shortboard: This board is also known as the thruster and is commonly used in contest surfing for shredding through waves. The board makes it harder to paddle, however what it lacks in paddling, makes up for in power, control and speed. The tails of these boards are generally rounded square tail.

Longboard: This board is also known as the Log or the Cruizer board. It is recommended for beginners since these are more stable in water and paddling into the water is easier. They are over 8 or 9 feet long and have a rounded nose. They are not as good for gaining speed or changing direction in the waves. However surfing a longboard has its own draws such as radical sharp turns, hang high fives and tandem surfing.

Fish: A fish is a variation of a shortboard with a wider base, a shallow tail, wider mid-section and a rounder nose. They are slightly easier to paddle and are designed to improve the ability to catch waves. These are good for medium to small sized waves.

Gun: A gun is elongated version of a long board with a narrow nose and a pointy tail, meant for increased rail contact. These can range from 6 ft to 10ft. These are designed for riding large and powerful waves. These are easier to paddle and easier to control in bigger waves.

Bodyboard: These are rectangular boards designed for all age groups. These are made for riding the waves while laying down and not standing up.